Friday, February 24, 2012
SWIMMING LOWERS BLOOD PRESSURE
Effects of Swimming Training on Blood Pressure and Vascular Function in Adults over 50 Years of Age, the study concluded that swimming exercise lowered blood pressure and improved vascular function.
More evidence linking aquatic exercise and health has been uncovered in a study published in the American Journal of Cardiology.
The study stated that, "Swimming is ideal for older adults because it includes minimum weight-bearing stress and decreased heat load. re-published by; www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Monday, February 20, 2012
VINYL LINER POOLS
Today we can build any custom shape or size of vinyl-liner pool.
Vinyl-liners have just about any look you could want. Some even look exactly like stone finishes. Vinyl liners are smooth to the touch and will not scrape your skin like concrete/guinite pools.
Unlike fiberglass pools you will not get any cracking of the finish as you would with fiberglass shells. Also, the gelcoat on fiberglass pools will fade! Over time vinyl liners will also slowly fade; But you can easily change a vinyl liner 10 or 15 years down the road for a totally new looking inground vinyl-liner pool. With concrete/gunite pools you will need to regularly acid-wash them and re-plaster (or re-marcite) them at great expense.(many thousands of dollars)
The plumbing, pump/filter, heater, lighting equipment etc.are the same, for vinyl pools, as other types of inground pools.
But you will need less chemicals to keep the water clear than you would with a concrete/gunite pool, so the cost of yearly operation is much less. Email us with any other questions that you might have, and I will try to answer them. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco...email: richard@paradisepoolandspa.com
Vinyl-liners have just about any look you could want. Some even look exactly like stone finishes. Vinyl liners are smooth to the touch and will not scrape your skin like concrete/guinite pools.
Unlike fiberglass pools you will not get any cracking of the finish as you would with fiberglass shells. Also, the gelcoat on fiberglass pools will fade! Over time vinyl liners will also slowly fade; But you can easily change a vinyl liner 10 or 15 years down the road for a totally new looking inground vinyl-liner pool. With concrete/gunite pools you will need to regularly acid-wash them and re-plaster (or re-marcite) them at great expense.(many thousands of dollars)
The plumbing, pump/filter, heater, lighting equipment etc.are the same, for vinyl pools, as other types of inground pools.
But you will need less chemicals to keep the water clear than you would with a concrete/gunite pool, so the cost of yearly operation is much less. Email us with any other questions that you might have, and I will try to answer them. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco...email: richard@paradisepoolandspa.com
Thursday, February 16, 2012
ABOUT "POLYSTEEL" POOL WALLS
There are 3 types of Inground Vinyl-liner swimming pool walls. The best is the "POLYSTEEL" swimming pool wall.
Here are the advantages...but let's first speak about all 3 types of pool walls.
1. GALVANIZED STEEL wall panel. Stronger than Polymer-plastic, but they have been knownto rust and corrode. One must check to see the quality of the steel used, and the quality of the galvanization by a specific swimming-pool wall manufacturer.
2. POLYMER-PLASTIC wall panel.(sometimes called :Graphex" by one wall manufacturer). While they don't rust, they have been known to crack, due to bulging during freeze-thaw cycles here in the Northeast. They also don't have the strength of steel walls.
3. "POLYSTEEL" is a polyester powder-coating, (electrostatically applied and then baked-on at over 400 degrees), over a galvanized-steel wall panel. It doesn't bulge, rust, corrode, or crack.
"POLYSTEEL" starts with a "CARDINAL" 14 gauge steel-wall panel that is armored with a G235 heavy 2.5 ounce per sq. ft.coating of zinc galvanizing.
Then the entire formed panel is coated and baked-on with a polyester resin, that re-establishes the corrosion resistance in areas where the galvanization has been compromised during the panel-forming process, such as skimmer cut-outs, bolt holes, and cut edges of the pool-wall panel. Remember, with just plain galvanizing, the edges, cutouts, holes, etc. lose their galvanization and that's why rust starts to form on the plain, galvanized, panel. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco...www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Here are the advantages...but let's first speak about all 3 types of pool walls.
1. GALVANIZED STEEL wall panel. Stronger than Polymer-plastic, but they have been knownto rust and corrode. One must check to see the quality of the steel used, and the quality of the galvanization by a specific swimming-pool wall manufacturer.
2. POLYMER-PLASTIC wall panel.(sometimes called :Graphex" by one wall manufacturer). While they don't rust, they have been known to crack, due to bulging during freeze-thaw cycles here in the Northeast. They also don't have the strength of steel walls.
3. "POLYSTEEL" is a polyester powder-coating, (electrostatically applied and then baked-on at over 400 degrees), over a galvanized-steel wall panel. It doesn't bulge, rust, corrode, or crack.
"POLYSTEEL" starts with a "CARDINAL" 14 gauge steel-wall panel that is armored with a G235 heavy 2.5 ounce per sq. ft.coating of zinc galvanizing.
Then the entire formed panel is coated and baked-on with a polyester resin, that re-establishes the corrosion resistance in areas where the galvanization has been compromised during the panel-forming process, such as skimmer cut-outs, bolt holes, and cut edges of the pool-wall panel. Remember, with just plain galvanizing, the edges, cutouts, holes, etc. lose their galvanization and that's why rust starts to form on the plain, galvanized, panel. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco...www.paradisepoolandspa.com
SALT CHLORINATORS-Briefly speaking
1. Automatic chlorine generation by electrolysis of a small amount of salt (sodium chloride-table salt), added to the pool-water.
2. The salt level is low enough that it will normally not be tasted.
3. The salt system converts salt into free chlorine, which kills bacteria and algae in the pool. Chlorine will revert back to salt in the pool-water solution after killing bacteria.
4. These reactions will continuously recycle virtually eliminating the need to add sanitizing chemicals to your pool. You will still have to maintain proper levels of other pool-chemicals, like PH,Alkalinity,etc.
5. The only time you may need to add more salt to the pool, is when water is replenished due to backwashing, draining, heavy rains, or splash-out by swimmers-but not due to evaporation.
6. As long as your pool pump is running and filtering, you are in-effect continuously mini-shocking the pool with fresh chlorine gas....Sincerely; Rich DeMarco-www.paradisepoolandspa.com
2. The salt level is low enough that it will normally not be tasted.
3. The salt system converts salt into free chlorine, which kills bacteria and algae in the pool. Chlorine will revert back to salt in the pool-water solution after killing bacteria.
4. These reactions will continuously recycle virtually eliminating the need to add sanitizing chemicals to your pool. You will still have to maintain proper levels of other pool-chemicals, like PH,Alkalinity,etc.
5. The only time you may need to add more salt to the pool, is when water is replenished due to backwashing, draining, heavy rains, or splash-out by swimmers-but not due to evaporation.
6. As long as your pool pump is running and filtering, you are in-effect continuously mini-shocking the pool with fresh chlorine gas....Sincerely; Rich DeMarco-www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Saturday, February 11, 2012
POOL TREASURE DISCOVERED
as reported in Aqua Magazine-March 2011...
Israeli archaeologists, recently excavating a site in Jerusalem, came across a rare gem... a 2,000 year-old Roman Pool. This find is from the 2nd or 3rd. century, the excavation director told the Associated Press.
The discovery included steps leading to the pool's white mosaic floor and terra-cotta roof tiles stamped "Tenth Legion". It suggests that the site was part of a larger bathing complex for Roman soldiers.
Posted by: Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Israeli archaeologists, recently excavating a site in Jerusalem, came across a rare gem... a 2,000 year-old Roman Pool. This find is from the 2nd or 3rd. century, the excavation director told the Associated Press.
The discovery included steps leading to the pool's white mosaic floor and terra-cotta roof tiles stamped "Tenth Legion". It suggests that the site was part of a larger bathing complex for Roman soldiers.
Posted by: Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
PET PROTECTION from DROWNING
The majority of pool owners have pets. I do. (See picture below) And I don't want anything to happen to them just as we don't want any harm to come to our children, family and friends. That's why I recommend some innovative products to keep our four-legged loved ones safe.
To prevent accidental drowning, the "SAFETY TURTLE" can be worn around a dog's collar; (it attaches with velcro to the collar),and an alarm sounds when the device is immersed in water. Our children can wear SAFETY TURTLES bracelets on their wrists for the same reason.
Another great product, for animals of all sizes, and critters of all kinds, is the SKAMPER-RAMP. It's made of heavy-duty plastic that is placed in a pool so that a few inches of the "nose' is underwater and the ramp breaks the water's surface, allowing the animal to see it at eye level in the water. The other end is secured against the vertical pool-wall so the critter can "Skamper" out of the pool via the ramp.
It comes in several sizes, rated for the weight of the animal; from less than 45 pounds and up to 200 pounds. For more information, visit www.skamper-ramp.com
When the pool is closed for the winter; used a secured safety-cover instead of a cover held in place by water-tubes. When an animal runs on the safety cover, it won't fall in and drown. Last winter, one of my clients had a deer jump his fence and run across his safety-covered pool, with no problem. The deer jumped the fence out also. If that was a water-tube winter cover, over Steve's pool instead of a safety-cover, we would have had a real problem with the deer falling through the cover, and into the pool.
And, if you would like an easy exit for frogs and other small animals to exit your skimmer; check out the "CRITTER SKIMMER" lid. Critter Skimmer allows animals, that invariably end up in the pool's skimmer, the ability to climb up the attached spiral rescue ramp and through the opening in the skimmer cover to safety.
Visit www.critterskimmer.com or call 1-866-583-7647 for more info & cost,etc.
Peace & Safety to all...Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
To prevent accidental drowning, the "SAFETY TURTLE" can be worn around a dog's collar; (it attaches with velcro to the collar),and an alarm sounds when the device is immersed in water. Our children can wear SAFETY TURTLES bracelets on their wrists for the same reason.
Another great product, for animals of all sizes, and critters of all kinds, is the SKAMPER-RAMP. It's made of heavy-duty plastic that is placed in a pool so that a few inches of the "nose' is underwater and the ramp breaks the water's surface, allowing the animal to see it at eye level in the water. The other end is secured against the vertical pool-wall so the critter can "Skamper" out of the pool via the ramp.
It comes in several sizes, rated for the weight of the animal; from less than 45 pounds and up to 200 pounds. For more information, visit www.skamper-ramp.com
When the pool is closed for the winter; used a secured safety-cover instead of a cover held in place by water-tubes. When an animal runs on the safety cover, it won't fall in and drown. Last winter, one of my clients had a deer jump his fence and run across his safety-covered pool, with no problem. The deer jumped the fence out also. If that was a water-tube winter cover, over Steve's pool instead of a safety-cover, we would have had a real problem with the deer falling through the cover, and into the pool.
And, if you would like an easy exit for frogs and other small animals to exit your skimmer; check out the "CRITTER SKIMMER" lid. Critter Skimmer allows animals, that invariably end up in the pool's skimmer, the ability to climb up the attached spiral rescue ramp and through the opening in the skimmer cover to safety.
Visit www.critterskimmer.com or call 1-866-583-7647 for more info & cost,etc.
Peace & Safety to all...Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
POOL-WATER FILTRATION METHODS
Pool-water filtration has been around since the Roman baths.
Today we have several ways to filter our pool-water. Residential pools use basically 3 types of water filtration; DE Filter (Diatomaceous earth) , Cartridge filter (a replaceable paper cartridge), and Sand Filter (layers of particles of sand in a tank).
With DE Grid replacement and constant replenishment of DE powder, (which is not safe to breathe), is the most costly to use. It's said that DE filters down to approx. 2-5 microns size of particles. And with backwashing needed when the DE filter gets filled with dirt,etc., a lot of pool-water & DE powder is sent into the street. After cleaning the filter by backwashing, you need to replenish the DE powder through the pool skimmer to re-coat the DE Grids inside the filter tank.
It's said that Cartridge filters down to approx. 10-20 microns size of particles. Backwashing is not performed with a Cartridge filter. You take apart the filter, remove the cartridge and wash it off with a high pressure hose. And, you don't need to constantly add replacement powder after each cleaning.
The easiest to use, and by far the least expensive over time, is the sand filter. It's said that the sand filters down to approx. 15-30 microns. The sand stays in the tank when you backwash the filter to clean it. And sand is the least expensive to replace, in its tank, which you will do in about 4-5 years or so. You suck out the old sand with a shop vac, clean the tank off, and pour in new bags of special pool-filter sand, not play sand!
Over the years, I have tried other filter media in a sand filter tank, such as expensive Zeolite. It filtered much finer than sand, but Later-on I found that the Zeolite mining process in the US, was not consistent. We had problems with caking & clogging at times.
The best media for a sand-tank filter, is "GLASS PACK". It's much more expensive than sand, but by far the easiest and best filtration; down to as low as 2-5 microns. It saves 75% on water, because of the short and less frequent backwashing, and saves up to 25% on lost chemicals too; and there is ZERO silica dust. It's made from 100% post consumer waste- that's crushed glass bottles-No Plastic!.
Crushed glass filtration media is less likely to block or channel than silica sand or Zeolite, and will not support moss or fungus growth in the filter media. And ECOsmarte Glasspack has been tested & certified to NSF61 for drinking water & NSF50 for commercial pools. It contains no crystalline or silica; resulting in better lung protection and a far healthier environment. And no Problems with DE powder disposal, which in many areas is being banned, due to possibility of the DE getting into the ground-water,etc. There is too much more to discuss here; but my pools using glass are sparkling clear with superior filtration and less restriction to the water flow back to the pool. For more info go to: www.glasspackfilter.com. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco; www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Today we have several ways to filter our pool-water. Residential pools use basically 3 types of water filtration; DE Filter (Diatomaceous earth) , Cartridge filter (a replaceable paper cartridge), and Sand Filter (layers of particles of sand in a tank).
With DE Grid replacement and constant replenishment of DE powder, (which is not safe to breathe), is the most costly to use. It's said that DE filters down to approx. 2-5 microns size of particles. And with backwashing needed when the DE filter gets filled with dirt,etc., a lot of pool-water & DE powder is sent into the street. After cleaning the filter by backwashing, you need to replenish the DE powder through the pool skimmer to re-coat the DE Grids inside the filter tank.
It's said that Cartridge filters down to approx. 10-20 microns size of particles. Backwashing is not performed with a Cartridge filter. You take apart the filter, remove the cartridge and wash it off with a high pressure hose. And, you don't need to constantly add replacement powder after each cleaning.
The easiest to use, and by far the least expensive over time, is the sand filter. It's said that the sand filters down to approx. 15-30 microns. The sand stays in the tank when you backwash the filter to clean it. And sand is the least expensive to replace, in its tank, which you will do in about 4-5 years or so. You suck out the old sand with a shop vac, clean the tank off, and pour in new bags of special pool-filter sand, not play sand!
Over the years, I have tried other filter media in a sand filter tank, such as expensive Zeolite. It filtered much finer than sand, but Later-on I found that the Zeolite mining process in the US, was not consistent. We had problems with caking & clogging at times.
The best media for a sand-tank filter, is "GLASS PACK". It's much more expensive than sand, but by far the easiest and best filtration; down to as low as 2-5 microns. It saves 75% on water, because of the short and less frequent backwashing, and saves up to 25% on lost chemicals too; and there is ZERO silica dust. It's made from 100% post consumer waste- that's crushed glass bottles-No Plastic!.
Crushed glass filtration media is less likely to block or channel than silica sand or Zeolite, and will not support moss or fungus growth in the filter media. And ECOsmarte Glasspack has been tested & certified to NSF61 for drinking water & NSF50 for commercial pools. It contains no crystalline or silica; resulting in better lung protection and a far healthier environment. And no Problems with DE powder disposal, which in many areas is being banned, due to possibility of the DE getting into the ground-water,etc. There is too much more to discuss here; but my pools using glass are sparkling clear with superior filtration and less restriction to the water flow back to the pool. For more info go to: www.glasspackfilter.com. Sincerely; Rich DeMarco; www.paradisepoolandspa.com
SALT WATER CHLORINE GENERATION
It's amazing what a little salt can do to enhance your pool water sanitizing needs. Forget about mixing, measuring or messing around with harsh liquid chlorine or chlorine tablets or powder . Say goodbye to red eyes, itchy skin, heavy chemical odors and the bleaching of clothes.
Now there's an easier, more cost-effective way to enjoy pool water that's always clean, clear and luxuriously soft. A LITTLE SALT GOES A LONG WAY.
Using advanced electrolytic technology to convert a small amount of ordinary salt into a virtually endless supply of fresh, pure chlorine gas, your pool water will remain clear. How? A small, safe electrical charge, in the Turbo Salt-Cell, converts the dissolved salt into pure chlorine...The chlorinated salt-water is then dispersed evenly throughout your pool by the return jets. When your pump is running, you are, in essence, continually mini-shocking the pool with fresh chlorine. And since the salt doesn't wear out or evaporate, you rarely have to add more. It takes, a minimal amount of salt, about one teaspoon per gallon, to automatically generate a self-renewing supply of fresh, pure chlorine-for your pool water sanitizing. The Atlantic ocean is 35,000ppm of salt, your pool water will be about 3,000ppm of salt. No problem with tasting it!
I only recommend the HAYWARD AQUA-RITE Salt Chlorine Generator. I have been using it on my own pool since1991. It is the most reliable!
Check back at another time for more to come on this issue...Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Now there's an easier, more cost-effective way to enjoy pool water that's always clean, clear and luxuriously soft. A LITTLE SALT GOES A LONG WAY.
Using advanced electrolytic technology to convert a small amount of ordinary salt into a virtually endless supply of fresh, pure chlorine gas, your pool water will remain clear. How? A small, safe electrical charge, in the Turbo Salt-Cell, converts the dissolved salt into pure chlorine...The chlorinated salt-water is then dispersed evenly throughout your pool by the return jets. When your pump is running, you are, in essence, continually mini-shocking the pool with fresh chlorine. And since the salt doesn't wear out or evaporate, you rarely have to add more. It takes, a minimal amount of salt, about one teaspoon per gallon, to automatically generate a self-renewing supply of fresh, pure chlorine-for your pool water sanitizing. The Atlantic ocean is 35,000ppm of salt, your pool water will be about 3,000ppm of salt. No problem with tasting it!
I only recommend the HAYWARD AQUA-RITE Salt Chlorine Generator. I have been using it on my own pool since1991. It is the most reliable!
Check back at another time for more to come on this issue...Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Thursday, February 9, 2012
POOL PLUMBING HYDRAULICS
I would like to talk about the hydraulics of your pool plumbing system. The ideal flow rate of water through a 1-1/2" PVC Pool-Water pipe is 44 gpm(44gallons per minute). What this means is that a pump's horsepower should be closely related to the gpm needed to move the water through the pool's system.
An over-sized pump forces too much water, adding energy costs that do not pay off in increased flow. It can also increase velocity above the recommended seven feet per second(fps).
When water travels faster than recommended through the pipes, which greater horsepower pumps do, you increase the friction in the pipes, and create an inefficient system that does not filter the water any better.
Let's compare it to fuel economy in your car. You get better gas mileage driving 55 or 60 mph than you do going 75mph or faster. This is because at higher speeds you encounter more resistance(friction).
The same thing happens when water travels faster than it should through a certain size pipe. Slowing down the water is a good way to reduce friction loss, and lower friction loss means less energy consumed by the pump.(Lower friction loss means less energy needed to move the water at the same speed.)
One way to determine the ideal pump size size for your pool, is to know the pool's volume and turnover rate. Say it's a 16' x 32' pool with 18,000 gallons of water. Divide 18,000 by six hours,(actualy 18,000 by 360 minutes), and you get 50 gallons per minute.This is the gallons per minute (flow) you need to turnover the pool water in six hours or, if the filtration system runs around the clock, you can turnover four times in 24 hours.
Take that number to a pump curve, (supplied by pump manufacturer), and you'll find that a 1/2hp. pump will do the job with the 1.5inch pool plumbing. A larger horsepower pump might do the job faster, and a smaller pump might take longer, but it will use less energy overall. And the smaller pump will, filter the water, and disperse the chemicals, just as well.
But in most residential pools, we have fittings, elbows, and valves, which add to the friction loss. So, you probably will need a 3/4hp or 1hp. pump to move the same water . When you put a 1-1/2hp or 2hp pump on your pool, all that you are doing is adding 50% or 100% to the daily cost of electricity to run your pool system. In most cases, unless you have some waterfall or spa jet features, or extra long pipe runs,etc. you should not need these larger horsepower pumps.
An over-sized pump forces too much water, adding energy costs that do not pay off in increased flow. It can also increase velocity above the recommended seven feet per second(fps).
When water travels faster than recommended through the pipes, which greater horsepower pumps do, you increase the friction in the pipes, and create an inefficient system that does not filter the water any better.
Let's compare it to fuel economy in your car. You get better gas mileage driving 55 or 60 mph than you do going 75mph or faster. This is because at higher speeds you encounter more resistance(friction).
The same thing happens when water travels faster than it should through a certain size pipe. Slowing down the water is a good way to reduce friction loss, and lower friction loss means less energy consumed by the pump.(Lower friction loss means less energy needed to move the water at the same speed.)
One way to determine the ideal pump size size for your pool, is to know the pool's volume and turnover rate. Say it's a 16' x 32' pool with 18,000 gallons of water. Divide 18,000 by six hours,(actualy 18,000 by 360 minutes), and you get 50 gallons per minute.This is the gallons per minute (flow) you need to turnover the pool water in six hours or, if the filtration system runs around the clock, you can turnover four times in 24 hours.
Take that number to a pump curve, (supplied by pump manufacturer), and you'll find that a 1/2hp. pump will do the job with the 1.5inch pool plumbing. A larger horsepower pump might do the job faster, and a smaller pump might take longer, but it will use less energy overall. And the smaller pump will, filter the water, and disperse the chemicals, just as well.
But in most residential pools, we have fittings, elbows, and valves, which add to the friction loss. So, you probably will need a 3/4hp or 1hp. pump to move the same water . When you put a 1-1/2hp or 2hp pump on your pool, all that you are doing is adding 50% or 100% to the daily cost of electricity to run your pool system. In most cases, unless you have some waterfall or spa jet features, or extra long pipe runs,etc. you should not need these larger horsepower pumps.
In fact, if you push the water through the pool's filter too fast, the filter will not clean the water as well as at the slower rate.
more to come at a later date...from Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
more to come at a later date...from Rich DeMarco: www.paradisepoolandspa.com
Check out our new Pool Wall Primer Page
A Primer on Pool Walls For Vinyl-Liner Pools
http://www.paradisepoolandspa.com/pool-wall-primer.html
http://www.paradisepoolandspa.com/pool-wall-primer.html
http://www.paradisepoolandspa.com/pool-wall-primer.html
http://www.paradisepoolandspa.com/pool-wall-primer.html
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